While most travellers associate Peru with Machu Picchu and the country’s southern highlights, the north offers a completely different experience. From the ancient adobe city of Chan Chan and the surf culture of Máncora to the traditions of Piura and Catacaos, northern Peru is rich in history, culture, and lesser-known adventures.
As part of NomadMania’s updated regional structure, which includes the addition of Ancash as a distinct region, travellers are encouraged to explore beyond Peru’s classic tourist circuit and discover the remarkable diversity found across the country’s northern regions.
In this article, NomadMania member Sera Ertan shares her journey through northern Peru, highlighting some of the hidden gems, local encounters, and unforgettable experiences she found along the way.
Take it away Sera..
Hi Nomads, I’m Sera Ertan, an actress, writer, and ocean-loving nomad, travelling full-time for nearly a decade.
Through Road to Yourself (roadtoyourself.com) and my YouTube channel (@RoadToYourselfOfficial), I share my adventures, creative projects, films, and stories from the road, and I collaborate with trusted expedition partners around the world to design select, immersive journeys and sailing experiences for those who want to explore the world intentionally.
My work blends storytelling, film, sailing, and travel design, with a focus on exploring the world through creativity, movement, and immersive experience rather than conventional tourism.
This article is about my third trip back to Peru, a country I keep returning to despite all the other places in the world I’ve yet to explore. The deeper I travel here, the more I realise there’s always another layer to discover. I rarely leave a place without wanting to catch the next flight back and Peru is absolutely one of them.
Having already explored the touristy southern route of Cusco and Machu Picchu on a previous trip, this time I headed north. I travelled all the way from Lima to Máncora, with stops in Trujillo and Piura. Over three weeks, I split my days between each place chasing sun, sea, salt, ancient history, and ceviche. Part adventure, part slow overland exploration, it was an experience that felt spontaneous, alive and truly worth it. Here’s a very off-the-beaten-path itinerary for adventurous souls.
Northern Peru & NomadMania’s Updated Regions
NomadMania’s updated regional structure in Peru (https://nomadmania.com/batch-6-regions-latin-america/), including the addition of Ancash as a distinct region, highlights just how geographically diverse the country is beyond its most visited southern circuit.
Ancash is particularly significant because it includes both a key overland route between Lima and northern Peru, and one of the country’s most important trekking regions around Huaraz and the Cordillera Blanca, known for high-altitude lakes, glaciers, and classic backpacking routes.
From the Andes to the Pacific coast, northern Peru shifts dramatically across short distances, moving between desert landscapes, archaeological zones, surf towns, and small coastal cities.
Trujillo
Arriving early in the morning from Lima meant I needed my coffee in Trujillo badly. Like any coffee addict, I walked into the first place serving it and asked for my usual “café con leche”. I was shocked when they brought a full cup of milk with just a tiny shot of coffee.
Turns out “leche con café” is a thing here, milk first, coffee second. The concentrated “café pasado” explains it, but as someone who downs three espressos before noon, I still found it mild.
The main reason I stopped in Trujillo, besides breaking up the long journey, was Chan Chan, the largest pre-Columbian adobe complex.
I’m not a huge history buff, but after hearing about the Chimú civilization that lived there before the Incas, I had to see it. Nearby, huacas, ancient adobe pyramids, offer sacred points of connection between earthly and spiritual realms. Visiting them is a rare chance to reconnect with both history and yourself.
During my visit, the staff welcomed me warmly. With far fewer tourists than Machu Picchu, each international guest gets VIP treatment. I highly recommend paying a bit extra for a guide, it transforms the experience.
Readers interested in seeing more of Chan Chan, Piura, and Catacaos can also follow this part of the journey in my video
Máncora
Next stop: Máncora, a tiny surf town that felt like exactly what I needed. A tuktuk driver met me at the station, grabbed my bags, and drove through dusty streets to my hotel. First impression? Way more off-grid than expected, think Palomino in Colombia (https://roadtoyourself.com/living-the-colombian-dream-colombia-complete-guide/): laid-back, ocean breeze, surfers in the distance, shops opening at noon.
Even the street dogs seem on vacation. Spending a few days here reminded me how slowing down and syncing with the natural rhythm of a place can completely reset your perspective.
Ideal for surfing or first-time learners, the town is full of surf schools with friendly instructors. Sunsets here are among the best I’ve ever seen, grab a beer, head to the beach for golden hour, and soak it in. El Mirador del Faro offers panoramic views and a bar below for a pisco sour before heading back.
For a quieter adventure, try the countryside thermal baths by tuktuk. Máncora has a lively party reputation, especially on weekends with reggaeton and salsa, but it’s easy to find calm spots too.
You can always choose to continue your journey up the coast to Ecuador. It’s only about 3 hours away. If you decide you want to fly out, there are three regional airports serving Máncora: Talara, Tumbes and Piura, each with daily flights to Lima. For those seeking a faster, more exclusive option, private flights to Máncora are also available.
Just minutes from town the Walter Braedt Segú Aerodrome offers a private airstrip for high end travelers arriving directly from Lima or Cusco by charter plane. It’s the ultimate way to skip the long road transfers and start your surf trip up North the right way.
I also documented my time in Máncora, including the surf culture, beaches, food, and local atmosphere, in this travel vlog
Piura & Catacaos
Piura is often overlooked as a transit stop, but it gives a real glimpse into everyday northern Peru. It is not a tourist city, and that is exactly what makes it interesting.
The nearby Catacaos was already on my list after I heard about the witches and artisans who live in this town. Only a short 15-minute ride away, it truly offers a unique atmosphere, a sharp contrast to the chaos of Piura. Similar to the mystic vibes of Cusco, the town has a relaxing energy and a perfect spot to shop for souvenirs and handmade gifts to bring back home to friends and family.
You can ask the shop owner if they know anyone doing energy cleaning and they’ll kindly refer you to the right person. Get ready for a truly immersive experience, native music, incenses, local healing drinks. Be open to receive and speak to the locals.
These encounters, simple yet profound, made me realise that the soul of northern Peru lives in its people as much as in its landscapes. I’m sure you’ll feel the magic!
Reflections
Northern Peru showed me a completely different side of the country. From Chan Chan’s scale and history, to the surf rhythm of Máncora, to the everyday life of Piura and the cultural identity of Catacaos, the region is far more diverse than most itineraries suggest. NomadMania’s updated regional structure, including Ancash, reflects this variety more accurately.
Northern Peru is not an extension of the south, it is its own world, shaped by distance, contrast, and movement.
